KIBG: Ale

All recipes courtesy of SuZilla, unless otherwise stated. These may be posted on other websites if proper credit is given. All yeast is Lalvin brand unless otherwise stated.

Abbreviations:
DME: dried malt extract
LME: liquid malt extract
abv: alcohol by volume


Warnog (dark Klingon Ale), 3 Gallons, 11% abv:

Yeast: Lalvin EC
4 oz Crystal malt
12 oz peated malt cracked grain
1/4 cup dried jasmine flowers [steeped] - optional
1/4 cup orange peel granules
9 whole cloves
1/4 tsp mace powder
4 lb dark LME
20 oz corn sugar
10 oz brown sugar
1.5 oz Galena Hops (1/3, 1/3, 1/3)
nutrients


Breshtanti Ale, 3 gallons, 8% abv:

yeast: lalvin EC or any ale yeast
1.5 cups rose buds and petals [steep seperately, add liquid at end]
1/4 cup lavender flowers [steep seperately, add liquid at end]
2 tsp Galena hops [bittering - boil 35 mins]
1 oz Fuggle Hops [finishing - half boil for 15 mins, half for 2 mins]
32-36 oz amber DME [dissolve in cold water]
18 oz corn sugar + 12 oz cane sugar
nutrients [add in last 10-15 mins]


Maraltian Seev-ale, 1 gallon, green:

Yeast: Lalvin EC or K1V
2 tsp barley grass powder
2 tsp wheat grass powder
1 tsp spirulina powder (add just before the dry hop)
1 tsp Fuggle hops (1/2 boil, rest dry hop)
1 tsp Galena hops (1/2 boil, rest dry hop)
10 oz light or extra light DME + 4 oz cane sugar + 4 oz corn sugar
nutrients
Just prior to bottling: Green color or chlorophyll extracted beforehand...


Chlorophyll 101: this ale is light green, and color from chlorophyll is better than artificial green coloring. I use chlorella as my source of chlorophyll. The green of chlorophyll is destroyed by heating, and extraction should be made in at least 40% alcohol prior to brewing. This extract should be added at the same time as the yeast. Under alkaline conditions, a water soluble bright green compound is extracted, but best to forget about getting this complicated unless you have a basic understanding of chemistry. Freezing prior to alcohol extraction will improve the yield. Adding chlorophyll extract too soon prior to bottling is a waste, as yeast seem to like any green color and will absorb it, leeching it away.


Some comments on ale:

Increasing the sugar content will increase the alcohol content up to the tolerance of the yeast. If brewing in a 1 gallon carboy, leave it in a sink or a tub for the first few days, in case of 'bubble over' - ales tend to bubble and foam very vigorously in the beginning. The more highly malted beers will bubble more - wise perhaps to use primary bucket, or use an overly large carboy and leave at least 4 inches space above waterline.

Regarding cane sugar (your regular white table sugar - sucrose): many beer brewers believe that cane sugar imparts a 'hot' or 'cidery' taste to the beer, and prefer to use corn sugar (dextrose) instead. Authorities on the subject differ in opinion. Some say that the 'cidery' taste goes away after 3-4 weeks of aging, while others attribute the off taste to be from various factors such as lack of yeast nutrient or insufficient yeast. Certainly cane sugar is much cheaper to use, and reasonable amounts (25%) should not harm the brew. Sucrose is a disaccharide made of glucose + fructose. I believe that is the fructose portion that is responsible for the 'cidery' taste. Cane sugar also lightens the body and color of beer.

Regard hopping: A reasonable guideline is 2 to 5 oz per 5 gallons, or 1 to 3 oz per 3 gallons, according to preference. Since I like my beer extra hoppy, I go for the high range.

Priming: I prime with 1/2 cup corn sugar for 3 gallons. Do not use 3/4 cup sugar for 3 gallons - you will likely get exploding bottles!


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